Tuesday
After several flights and long layovers in-between I finally made it to Jamaica. The international airport was small and it seemed like after we deplaned we had to walk another 10 minutes to get to customs. When I got there the woman checking my passport and asking me questions said that she knew who Mr. Dixon was – expressing to me that he was a pillar of the country as a whole! I felt very secure in my decision to come here at that point. I was picked up at the airport by Andrew- a STEA’s taxi driver who took me to through the city of Montego Bay. On the road I saw some of the new housing projects and all-inclusive seaside resorts closed off from the poverty stricken mountainside across the street. As we started driving higher we got onto the windy two –lane road up the hill we were he was actively dodging potholes and cars whizzing by at 50 miles an hour. On the way up I saw the massive sugar cane fields that create a significant amount of Jamaica’s income. I saw the Falmouth Cricket field which is renowned for its historical matches. However, what was instantly stunning was the crisp air and vivid color of the moist countryside as we started driving up the hill.
After several flights and long layovers in-between I finally made it to Jamaica. The international airport was small and it seemed like after we deplaned we had to walk another 10 minutes to get to customs. When I got there the woman checking my passport and asking me questions said that she knew who Mr. Dixon was – expressing to me that he was a pillar of the country as a whole! I felt very secure in my decision to come here at that point. I was picked up at the airport by Andrew- a STEA’s taxi driver who took me to through the city of Montego Bay. On the road I saw some of the new housing projects and all-inclusive seaside resorts closed off from the poverty stricken mountainside across the street. As we started driving higher we got onto the windy two –lane road up the hill we were he was actively dodging potholes and cars whizzing by at 50 miles an hour. On the way up I saw the massive sugar cane fields that create a significant amount of Jamaica’s income. I saw the Falmouth Cricket field which is renowned for its historical matches. However, what was instantly stunning was the crisp air and vivid color of the moist countryside as we started driving up the hill.
An hour and a half later we found ourselves in Albert Town. I followed Andrew up some concrete stairs outside of the building and into the two-story structure. I walked in to a small room that had several people sitting around while Mr. Hugh Dixon was busily typing away in his cubicle. He was smiling naturally, as everyone in the office and in the community does. I met the staff: Ainsworth- who is the lead eco tour guide, Sudine-the office manager, Mel-the account and Hugh’s right hand woman, and Brad the Peace Corps Volunteer who works at STEA, teaches, and coaches basketball at the nearby high school ( the high school in which Hugh Dixon also sits as the Chairman).
After the brief introduction I jumped back into the cab with Ainsworth and Andrew who he took me through more curvy roads to the community that I’m now staying in, Rock Spring. I felt the instant love of the community through its aesthetics and its people. For the next two weeks I will be staying with Mr. and Mrs. Pingy. They live in Rock Spring and seem to be the go-to people for home-stay accommodation for foreigners. People from Canada, Cuba, and America have stayed with them in the past. I was welcomed with a meal of boiled yams, bananas, rice and chicken. They are very nice people. I was directed to my bedroom that was similar to what I’m used to at home. I noticed the very western style bathroom they had but Ms. Pingy told me that the water pump is broken so I would have to take bucket baths while I’m here. It’s Peace Corps living all over again!
Wednesday
I woke up to the smell of eggs and sweet plantains today, all natural and from their farm. Mr. Pingy is a farmer so he had already left to the farm. He works with yams, sugarcane and other crops. Mrs. Pingy stays home and runs the occasional errand for the house. I left on the taxi with Ainsworth and we then packed tightly in the back of an old Honda Civic. Then we went on a rollercoaster ride up the hill for a little over $1and got up to STEA at around 9:30pm. I sat at the table and got to know the people a bit better. Found out about their family life and how they got to STEA. We ate well and I took a field trip to the local school a couple of buildings away.
The school uniforms were yellow and brown. Brad is also the basketball coach at the school and was refereeing a game when we entered the campus. Brad is also responsible for introducing the sport to the school during his Peace Corps tenure. The school’s frame was weathered. Classrooms seemed full, but once again there was no shortage of smiles. I went into the computer room around the dirt track and through the cafeteria. Ainsworth told me that it is very strict in the schools of Jamaica compared to what he hears about American public schools are run. I got back to STEA and did some more hanging out, answering emails and realized that I could get used to loving in this type of environment.
Thursday
I had a meeting with Mr. Dixon outlining what I will be doing for my stay yesterday. Today I will create a video with Mr. Dixon gaining an understanding of how the organization works through his point of view. Throughout my stay I will go on a hike(s) with Ainsworth who will lead me through some of the natural areas STEA aims to sustain. Their aim is to create conservation awareness among the community and visitors. Next week I will be meeting with Mel about the how funding is created for STEA. Sudine will tell me who the office is maintained, and Kimone (whom I’ve yet to meet) who handles all the marketing for STEA. I will also have a couple of meetings with Mr. Dixon about the direction STEA will be going in.
Watching the street:
Today I went on a trek with Ainsworth and Brad to a small cave and the Rock Spring Sink. We took a trail that hugged the river and there is where I realized that the river in Rock Spring is functional for the town. People wash their clothes; use it for drinking water, bath and fish in it. Unfortunately, trash (made up mostly of discarded plastic bottles) is scattered along the trails and water ways, sometimes creating unnatural dams and irregular water systems. There were points in our hike where we would walk through foot high water and parts where we were in waist-deep water all in a heavy jungle climate. Some plant life along the river has also been affected to the point of extinction – based on what Ainsworth told us. The sink was covered by dead bamboo which covered the sink. The surrounding jungle was also home to cattle and the native birds of the island. Here was a point where I, of course, stepped through some dead wood that cut my leg up although it wasn't severe. The typical Peace Corps response from Brad was to “Just throw some water on it and it dry out out…no worries!”
Today was a pretty easy day. Spoke and joked with some of the staff in the office. We ate meat pies of “patties” as they are called here; cost=$1. I instantly fell in love and am glad patties are ridiculously overpriced and considered fine cuisine in the Tempe, because I would surely be obese.
I checked into the Indies Hotel a place most Peace Corps Volunteers stay while they are in town. I knew that I had to find the Peace Corps Office. So I started walking. New Kingston is a major metropolitan center and is extremely humid. I would say that it was about 70-80 degrees but the humidity was about 100%. I couldn’t believe how much I was sweating just by standing outside.
Thursday
I had a meeting with Mr. Dixon outlining what I will be doing for my stay yesterday. Today I will create a video with Mr. Dixon gaining an understanding of how the organization works through his point of view. Throughout my stay I will go on a hike(s) with Ainsworth who will lead me through some of the natural areas STEA aims to sustain. Their aim is to create conservation awareness among the community and visitors. Next week I will be meeting with Mel about the how funding is created for STEA. Sudine will tell me who the office is maintained, and Kimone (whom I’ve yet to meet) who handles all the marketing for STEA. I will also have a couple of meetings with Mr. Dixon about the direction STEA will be going in.
Watching the street:
Friday
In the evening, which happens every Friday, Mr. Dixon got most of the STEA employees together for a hang-out session. He feels that along with meetings that happen during office hours having a very in formal weekly gathering at STEA creates a sense of family and pushes the creativity for potential projects into a public forum for critique. Food and drink flowed through the evening as we discussed politics, current projects and played cards. I also got to meet Kimone, the marketing director, who was once a buyer for Macy’s in New York and currently works for a major retailer here in Jamaica. I feel that I will have a lot to learn from her. The rest of the evening was spent at home with Mr. and Mrs. Pingy watching satellite TV. Jamaican Satellite TV is filled with more American, British and Jamaican programs that I could have ever imagined! I think this is why many people in Rock Spring are aware of American politics and current events.
Monday
STEA has a morning meetings every Monday. It’s meeting conducted by Mr. Dixon about current and future plans. Today I got a rundown of what Melesia does at the STEA. As the Finance and Administration Director she is responsible for so many things. She gave me a chance to look at the books and get an idea of how STEA is run.
STEA income:
Most of the STEA’s Income comes from grants- I see Mr.Dixon and Melesia working on writing one of the grants on a daily basis here in the office. They are continuously fact checking and spell-checking each other to make sure the detail are in order. I asked what major funder would they like to get funds from and Mel said that they’ve applied for USAID grants but they keep getting denied. Kimone also scours the web for funding opportunities as well. About 20% comes from the Environmental Foundation of Jamaica which is a Funding Agency for all of the environmental agencies in Jamaica. The Yam Festival is one of the major fundraising events that happens for STEA (please see explanation in first entry), which due to the lack of funding from previously large donors is not happening this year. Eco-tours also create income for STEA. These tours take people through natural caves, waterways, and other environments throughout the Trelawny region. The Global Environmental Facility in Jamaica also gives most of the operating budget.
Operating budget: rent, electricity and water- included in rent, phone, they use QuickBooks for to maintain their budget.
9 Member Board of Directors: Hugh Dixon is the Executive Director, Melesia is the Finance and Admin director, Kimone is the Marketing Director. They are the 3 working directors within the office.
Challenges
Mainly getting consistent funding.
Finding things to do during the gaps in-between projects, e.g. environmental treks- projects are mainly how STEA gets things done. And finding that balance being in such an informal work setting. Getting their name out there Marketing seems to be something that STEA needs to enhance in more of Jamaica’s urban centers. They need more videos, business cards, and flyers to post through communities as well as to other entities that would be able to refer potential customers and investors.
At the end of the week I will be going on a trek through Clarks Town with the STEA staff to evaluate how their tours are run.
Tonight I came home to Mr.Pingy’s video of his sister’s funeral at the local Baptist Church. Mr. Pingy showed me all of his family members in the video and told me that his sister used to be a health professional. It was interesting to see and somehow at the dinner table we got into a deep conversation about Cuba and the great work they do for healthcare reform in Jamaica.
Tuesday
Today I made plans to go to Kingston. Some friends and family have made a fuss of how dangerous Kingston is. They have not been to either Kingston or Jamaica and I assume they are basing their position on what their media resources tell them. Since being here I can’t believe that all off Kingston is dangerous. Furthermore based on where and how I’ve been living I don’t see how people wouldn’t be nice even in the city. I do plan on visiting the Peace Corps Office and seeing if I can connect with Peace Corps Volunteers. I’m also told that Peace Corps Jamaica will be having its 50th Anniversary celebration during my stay I Kingston- should be a good time.
Today was a pretty easy day. Spoke and joked with some of the staff in the office. We ate meat pies of “patties” as they are called here; cost=$1. I instantly fell in love and am glad patties are ridiculously overpriced and considered fine cuisine in the Tempe, because I would surely be obese.
Eating
While in Jamaica you may find yourself eating in groups. Although you can follow many of the dining rules you were brought up with there may be some things you are not used to:
Be willing to share all or your food and drink.
You should share your drink via cup, passing the coke bottle you just drank from expecting Jamaican’s to drink from it will not work .
Use your utensils
Excuse yourself from the table.
If all else fails just be patient and see how others are eating and most of all have fun.
Wednesday-Thursday
I’m in Kingston!
Just made it to Kingston from Rock Spring:
From Rock Spring to Albert Town=$J100; Albert Town to Christiana=$J150; Christiana to Mandeville=$J150; Mandeville to Kingston= $J350= $J750 or $8.6. Time ~3 hours.
In taxis they will pile people on top of one another. It’s not uncommon for a 5-seater car to have 7 people riding (not including kids). The drivers, in attempt to make quick money, will drive extremely fast through windy roads throughout the city. I thought it was just a country thing. Therefore, I thought things would get more spacious as I got closer to Kingston- especially on the bus. Not the case. When all the seats were full people were still being directed to the bus! The saving grace of the 1.5 hour trip was the music that blasted through the bus speakers. There were some self proclaimed singers on the bus and head-nodders (including me). The topography of Jamaican is breathtaking. Bright lush hills to dark valleys and different shades of black people, with everyone doing something from traveling to discussing the day’s news on the corner. The cities are small but filled with American food establishments: KFC, Burger King, TGI Fridays, Pizza Hut. Wray and Nephew billboards, Island grille and Tastees are the main ads I saw throughout my trip to Kingston. After piling off the bus I took a taxi to the hotel. For 4km I had to pay $J600 because it was the city. Mrs. Pingy – my homestay mother said I would about $J500 so when he said $J600 I knew that the US hustle was in effect!
I checked into the Indies Hotel a place most Peace Corps Volunteers stay while they are in town. I knew that I had to find the Peace Corps Office. So I started walking. New Kingston is a major metropolitan center and is extremely humid. I would say that it was about 70-80 degrees but the humidity was about 100%. I couldn’t believe how much I was sweating just by standing outside.
I met with some volunteers who took me in as one of their own. We ate, drank and laughed. Later I attend the welcoming of a new group of Peace Corps Volunteers to the Island, and the celebration if Peace Corps being in Jamaica for 50 years (which was around the same time Jamaica gained their independence). While I was there I met a former Peace Corps Volunteer Amy Laskin- who had stayed in Jamaica after her service for over two decades! She makes her living as a painter and sails her works to dignitaries in Jamaica. She lives in the renowned Blue Mountains (home of the world famous coffee) and she offered to take me through them and to her home/studio during my stay. Of course I said yes.
Later that night I connected with other volunteers to get an idea of how it is to be White Americans (which after talking to black volunteers is a difference) in Jamaica- living and working. I was told that from time to the people in their communities do poke fun at them, but since they know the culture they know how to deal with it or even make a witty comeback from a poke. Some of them, after almost two years of service, felt that the people in the communities they were working in didn’t feel that they needed the help of Peace Corps as educators and community developers. Some felt that they got the perfect service and felt that their work was something that will benefit them for the rest of their lives both professionally and socially. Some people told me about issues with loneliness in their communities and the some of the romantic relationships they developed of the years with Jamaican men and women. Mixed feelings from people from mixed background is how I took it all. Time for bed.
Friday
During the festivities yesterday I met a former Peace Corps Volunteer who has been in Jamaica since the Late ‘80’s. Amy Laskin currently lives in the famous Blue Mountains of Jamaica. She invited me up for a hike.
Transportation from Kingston to the Blue Mountains:
I walked a couple of blocks to the Devon House (hyperlink this) and then waited at the bus stop for about 15 minutes for the 900 bus to come. Several taxis passed by and I knew that they would probably be charging double for my trip to Papine- a town that had the bus I needed to take to get into the mountains. Then an older man walked by and asked me something in Patwa, when I asked for him to repeat himself he automatically knew that I was not Jamaican and then we started talking about where he was from and how he’d been to a *Ny Night or funeral event for his aunt. As we spoke he hailed down a taxi and asked if I wanted to get in. He spoke to the driver as traffic was whizzing by and said that the taxi would take me to Papine for the same price the bus would.
We jumped in the taxi and went=$J80
I got to Papine spoke to the *front man and got in the bus for what felt like a 30 minutes ride up and another windy road through the lush and vivid Blue Mountains.
I got dropped off a little after Gordon Tow=$J100
I walked up the hill to meet Amy at her home and studio that sat on top of the house. Of course my first question was why she decided to stay in Jamaica for over two decades. There were several answers but what stuck out to me was that she simply fell in love with the country and the people. At the time she didn’t feel that the US had anything to offer and she wanted to do so many things like dancing for a West Indies dance company and paint. Now she spends her days in her home painting pieces and selling them to Jamaica’s wealthy. She has a dog named Thunder and a Parrot named Buddy. We hung out for about two hours and then made our way down the mountain after the rain showers. I then jumped on a public bus and road in to town during rush hour. Uniformed Students piled on to the bus at each stop. For some reason the public transportation system and the drive through residential areas made me feel like I was at home again.
Two students sitting next to me stared at a cellphone with erotic anime pictures tilting the phone in an attempt to hide it from me. On the trip through the city I saw more Burger Kings, TGI Fridays, Pizza Huts and other US establishments. I arrived a t a massive bus depot with almost too many students waiting to transfer. A fight broke out and then there was chaos. I left and found a taxi to take me to another bus stop on the outskirts of town in order to take another tow hour ride to start my journey back home. Almost 4 hours later I arrived in the evening at STEA to see the staff doing the weekly routine of playing Crazy 8’s, joking around and drinking white rum. I was home.
*Ny Night- the first evening of observing someone’s death; a small party at the family’s house of the deceased
* front man- the person that brings in customers from the street for the local buses.
Saturday
I slept in pretty late and hung out with the Pingy’s for most of the day. Ms. Pingy told me that she has a son who is in Trinidad working at the harbor. She said that Trinidadians and Jamaica’s stereotypically don’t get along for cultural reasons so it’s hard for him to get a job at the moment. He is planning on coming home soon. She also has a daughter who lives in England with her family and another daughter who lives in Kingston with her family as well. I ate breakfast and lunch and watched US, British and Jamaican TV. I heard the massive stereo system pumping reggae through the streets of Rock Spring until 2am.
Sunday
The Trek
I woke up at 6am to go on a hike with the STEA staff from Rock Spring to Carks Town an estimated 12 mile hike. Gradually going uphill we saw wild goats, rock piles from decaying limestone and massive century plants. We walked through ravines over hills, through sugar cane fields and through Clarks Town during the church services. We walked for over 3 hours.
Then we went to a Beach. A beach for the public but then separated by small barriers built by resorts. It was the perfect way to end my visit with the STEA crew. We joked, ate and drank local goodies and i felt like we bonded like a family. the white sand and fresh air and the fact that I was finally sitting down made today perfect. I'm off to Montego Bay to stay at a hostel and leave this beautiful country and its people until I come back next time.
